Waterproofing Membranes

High-performance membranes for lasting protection against moisture and water damage, designed for a range of surfaces and applications.

Waterproofing Membranes
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Common Trade Questions

Waterproofing Membranes FAQs 📢

Acrylic membranes are water-based systems that dry by evaporation, making them ideal for internal wet areas such as bathrooms and laundries. They’re easy to apply and low in odour but are not UV stable and must be tiled or otherwise protected once dry.

Polyurethane membranes cure chemically, forming highly flexible and durable coatings suited to external and high-movement areas. Water-based PU membranes are safer for internal use, while solvent-based PUs like Silcor 560 HB and Enviro 700X VG offer stronger hydrostatic pressure resistance and chemical durability for retaining walls, planter boxes, and podium decks — though they should still be backfilled or tiled over, not left permanently exposed.

Cementitious membranes (such as Mapelastic Smart or Planiseal 88) are rigid or semi-flexible systems that bond exceptionally to concrete and masonry. They’re used for structural waterproofing, including basements, lift pits, and negative-side applications, where durability and vapour permeability are critical.

Most water-based membranes are not UV stable and should only be used under tile or protected finishes. However, WMA UV Spec is a Class III water-based polyurethane-acrylic membrane that is UV stable and AS 4654.1 compliant, making it suitable for exposed applications such as balconies, rooftops, podiums, and external decks.

In contrast, Mapelastic Smart is a two-component cementitious membrane formulated for wet areas and under-tile use where it remains protected from sunlight. While highly flexible and durable, it is not UV stable and should not be left exposed.

Most membranes require two coats applied in perpendicular directions.
The target dry film thickness varies:

• Acrylic membranes: approx. 1.2–1.5 mm dry film thickness (DFT).
• Polyurethane membranes: approx. 1.5–2 mm DFT.
• Cementitious membranes: usually 2–3 mm total build.

Too thin reduces performance; too thick causes curing issues and cracking. Always measure wet film thickness (WFT) with a gauge for consistency.

Only if the product is moisture-tolerant or designed for application on damp substrates. Standard water-based membranes should never be applied to visibly wet or saturated surfaces, as trapped moisture can cause bubbling and loss of adhesion.

For these conditions, first use a moisture-tolerant epoxy primer such as Planiseal MR or Gripset E60, which act as vapour barriers and allow overcoating once cured. Alternatively, use a cementitious membrane like Mapelastic Smart, which can be applied to damp (but not saturated) concrete surfaces.

Yes — always. Movement typically occurs at wall–floor junctions, penetrations, and sheet joins. Reinforcement fabric or polyester bandage should be embedded into the first wet coat of membrane to maintain continuity and tensile strength. This ensures cracks don’t transfer through the coating and provides long-term system integrity.

Curing time depends on membrane type and site conditions:

• Acrylic membranes: usually 24–48 hours before tiling.
• Polyurethane membranes: 3–7 days (longer for solvent-based).
• Cementitious membranes: minimum 4–5 days.

Cold, humid, or unventilated areas will extend cure times. Always confirm the membrane is fully dry, not just touch-dry, before bonding with adhesives.

Only when the manufacturer confirms compatibility. For example, Planiseal MR (epoxy primer) can be overcoated with Aquadefense or Mapelastic Foundation, but never apply solvent-based PU over a fresh acrylic. Mixing systems without understanding the chemistry often leads to delamination. If uncertain, use a primer as a bridging layer or stay within one manufacturer’s system to maintain warranty compliance.

When water pressure is coming from the outside pushing inward (such as basements, lift pits, or retaining walls), a rigid or crystalline cementitious membrane like Mapei Planiseal 88 or Mapelastic Foundation is ideal. These systems penetrate and bond into the concrete, blocking capillary moisture movement. For best results, they must be applied to clean, sound, saturated surface-dry (SSD) concrete with all efflorescence removed.

Flexible or acrylic membranes are not suitable for true negative waterproofing — they rely on adhesion and can delaminate under pressure. Always pair negative systems with crack injection or relief drainage where hydrostatic load is high.

Compliance depends on correct system design, film build, and documentation, not just product choice. To meet Australian Standards:

• AS 3740 (Internal Wet Areas): Ensure the membrane used is Class III (high extensibility) and tested to AS/NZS 4858. Apply at the manufacturer’s required dry film thickness and confirm coverage extends to all wall–floor junctions and penetrations.
• AS 4654.1 (External Above-Ground): Requires UV-stable or protected membranes rated for movement and weather exposure. Include bandaging and upturns to the specified height.
• Keep detailed records of product batch numbers, coverage rates, curing times, and inspection photos — these form part of the compliance evidence and warranty trail.

Remember: It’s the combination of verified product, correct build, and documented application that delivers compliance — not the membrane alone.