Collection: Coatings, Sealers & Finishes

A sealer penetrates the substrate to reduce porosity and repel moisture, oil, or stains — it protects within the surface. A coating, on the other hand, forms a protective film over the surface, adding thickness, colour, and chemical resistance. Think of sealers as invisible protection and coatings as visible barriers. Each plays a different role depending on the exposure conditions.

Not entirely. Most sealers are water-repellent, not waterproof — they slow absorption and surface degradation but don’t resist hydraulic pressure. For effective surface waterproofing, a membrane or high-build coating is required first.

However, penetrating hydrophobic sealers like H2O Guard 290 can dramatically reduce surface moisture uptake on concrete, stone, and brickwork — ideal for preventing rising damp or efflorescence on façades and external walls.

That depends on exposure, traffic, and coating type. Penetrating sealers on driveways or stone typically last 2–4 years, while film-forming coatings exposed to UV or chemicals may require recoating every 3–5 years. High-traffic or industrial areas should be inspected annually — early reapplication saves on costly full-strips later.

Only if the existing surface is clean, sound, and compatible. Incompatible chemistries — such as applying a solvent coating over a water-based one — can cause blistering, softening, or delamination. Always perform a small adhesion test area first or remove the old coating if there’s doubt. Clean thoroughly with a neutral detergent or surface prep solution to remove contaminants before recoating.

Use a breathable, silane–siloxane sealer that blocks water ingress while allowing vapour escape — such as H2O Guard 290. It forms an invisible, UV-stable, VOC-free barrier that prevents mould and salt build-up on basements, external brickwork, and retaining walls. Avoid solvent sealers that trap moisture.

Routine cleaning with pH-neutral cleaners preserves the coating’s integrity. Avoid acidic or alkaline cleaners as they degrade surface protection over time. For driveways or high-wear areas, reapply a top-up coat every 2–3 years. On tiled balconies or podium slabs, inspect junctions and movement joints annually — these are the first points of failure.

• Acrylics: UV-stable, breathable, and suitable for external walls or roofs.
• Polyurethanes (PU): Flexible, trafficable, and resistant to abrasion and chemicals — great for podiums, car parks, and rooftops.
• Epoxies: Hard, dense, and ideal for industrial or negative pressure areas, but not UV stable.
The choice depends on the exposure environment and maintenance requirements.

No — always clean and neutralise first, then seal. Efflorescence means moisture movement is still active. Once the surface is dry and stable, a penetrating product like H2O Guard 290 will help prevent future salt migration and discolouration by lining the pore structure with a hydrophobic film.

Clean, abrade, and recoat. For porous masonry or concrete that has lost its repellency, re-treat with a silane–siloxane system like H2O Guard 290. It penetrates deep into the surface to restore water resistance without altering colour or texture, making it ideal for heritage façades, balconies, and blockwork.

Yes — a lithium or sodium silicate densifier or a water-based epoxy is ideal for dust-proofing bare concrete. These products react with calcium hydroxide in the concrete to form a harder surface layer, improving abrasion resistance and reducing dust release. For best results, apply two coats and burnish for tight surface closure.